We keep hearing about the Canon EOS R6 Mark III coming in 2024

#81
JTP said:
At the end of the day it doesn't matter if it's a Rebel, point and shoot, or the pinnacle camera of the times - all that matters is that you are happy with the output and, if you are a professional, that you are making profit. I know some folks still shooting with the canon 5d mk iii's making incredible profits. And they aren't touching a damn thing because it isn't broken. They haven't bought gear in ages. Find a setup that works great for you and roll with it. If you are in business create a well oiled machine and just rake it in. Get the work in and get that stuff out ASAP.
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The 5D3 is still a great camera even today. Sometimes I actually wish I’d kept mine - I really enjoyed its skin tones and punchy colors. While I appreciate the higher hit rate I get from the 5D4 and R cameras, the look just isn’t quite the same, and I’m spending more time in post tweaking colors than I used to.

But I’ve still got the 5DSR, and I’ve started to use it more lately. I appreciate its “old school” colors a lot more now, even if the files may not be as flexible DR-wise. The extra resolution is great too. That said, that camera likes its light (for the most part). The 5D3 paired very well with it, I remember.
 
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#82
Del Paso said:
If only it got a top LCD, I would use it as a second body, along my future R5 II. I'd hate having to look thru the EVF or at the rear LCD in order to check my main settings. It's so much easier from above.
"Only" 24 MP? No issue at all.
If not, R5 II X 2. :)
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I have an R6 MKii that was an upgrade to my OG R. It’s the only thing I miss from the R. It’s an amazing camera, but not being able to easily see my settings from the top when I’m pulling the camera up from being slung is super annoying.
 
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#83
Act444 said:
....

But I’ve still got the 5DSR, and I’ve started to use it more lately. I appreciate its “old school” colors a lot more now, even if the files may not be as flexible DR-wise.
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That's the trade off. Less DR=more contrast=punchier color. More DR=less contrast=less punchy color. Which is why it amazes me that people keep clamoring for more DR. Maybe it is my art background, where contrast is far more important than DR, and where you learn that the human eye does not see detail in both highlights and shadows at the same time that makes me satisfied with lower DR and makes me add contrast to most images with today's cameras.
 
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#84
Quack said:
That's the trade off. Less DR=more contrast=punchier color. More DR=less contrast=less punchy color. Which is why it amazes me that people keep clamoring for more DR. Maybe it is my art background, where contrast is far more important than DR, and where you learn that the human eye does not see detail in both highlights and shadows at the same time that makes me satisfied with lower DR and makes me add contrast to most images with today's cameras.
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Indeed. Pretty common in post-processing to push up the shadows and pull down the highlights, i.e. decrease the DR of the processed image. Having said that, it's better to start with cleaner shadows and non-clipped highlights.
 
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#86
Quack said:
That's the trade off. Less DR=more contrast=punchier color. More DR=less contrast=less punchy color. Which is why it amazes me that people keep clamoring for more DR. Maybe it is my art background, where contrast is far more important than DR, and where you learn that the human eye does not see detail in both highlights and shadows at the same time that makes me satisfied with lower DR and makes me add contrast to most images with today's cameras.
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I really think you are confusing input DR and output DR. You seem to have have an issue with the default tonemapping, not the fidelity and range of the input signal.
 
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#89
Quack said:
Agree, it better to start with cleaner shadows and non-clipped highlights.
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Also better to start with a RAW file that’s not had an aggressive contrast profile added. It’s surprising how much highlight and shadow detail there is in a correctly exposed high contrast scene (old off chip ADC) CR2/3 file when no profile is added.
 
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#90
john1970 said:
How very very true. I often find myself bringing back details in shadows and highlights as needed. There is much more latitude with today's sensor that there was a decade ago.
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I edit this way too for the most part.

Having recently edited 5DS and R files almost side by side, though, I found the difference to be not as great as it might seem. The R files are a bit more flexible overall, yes, but if the highlights were gone on one camera, they were typically gone on the other as well.

I’m at a point where I want to reduce the amount of time editing and increase the amount of time shooting, so I’m doing what I can to get the OOC result as close to final/satisfied as I can get.
 
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