Exploring Canon’s 1 Series Digital Legacy
- Thread starter Richard CR
- Start date
Yes, you can, but only if metering is not active. When the camera is actively metering, it stops at ISO 100 but after metering times out, you can go a click past ISO 100 and that will put it on Auto.
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No, you can’t, that’s my issue, the wheel won’t “go” to auto, it stops at L, it’s maddening.
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I typically shoot in FV or M, and have ISO assigned to the control ring (in M mode I usually use auto ISO, and I assign EC to the rear dial).
Since @Robert Stone mentions using the L setting, I enabled that before turning the control ring on the 100-300/2.8 (and disabled it after shooting the video).
View attachment IMG_0163.mov
As I stated above, it only goes to Auto ISO if the camera is not actively metering.
Since @Robert Stone mentions using the L setting, I enabled that before turning the control ring on the 100-300/2.8 (and disabled it after shooting the video).
View attachment IMG_0163.mov
As I stated above, it only goes to Auto ISO if the camera is not actively metering.
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See, it’s super weird. Like it has a “default-to-auto”, after a while of waiting, but I can’t just put it back, it just won’t go. Maybe it’s a setting I’m not aware of? Looking forward to solving this. It lets me go to auto if it’s NOT in metering mode, but when you’re working fast and trying to get back to auto it just won’t do it manually, you have to wait the 2-3 seconds (middle of video) for it to default back to auto on its own…. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Video link, couldn’t seem to upload video from phone
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You are already in auto mode, even in auto the ISO can be changed with the wheel.
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Exactly. Camera does not lock on Auto ISO. If it’s set to Auto and you move the control dial assigned to change ISO, it will move off of Auto to whatever setting you select. But then it will not let you set it back to auto until the metering times out. I presume that behavior is what @Robert Stone doesn’t like.
Every Canon camera I have had has behaved in that way, so clearly it’s by design. I presume from Canon’s UI perspective, if it’s set to auto and you change it, you’re doing so intentionally and will not want to change it back.
Personally, I see @Robert Stone’s point. That’s the reason I have ISO assigned to the control ring, and EC on the rear dial. In manual mode, I can use EC to tweak the ISO setting a little, but it never leaves Auto. Plus, I’m not likely to accidentally move the control ring so unless I intentionally change the setting, it stays on Auto.
IIRC, on the R3 (and therefore almost certainly on the R1) you can assign a button to return an exposure setting to auto. Not sure if that’s only in Fv mode. Might be a workaround to look into.
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I appreciate the acknowledgment.
On my 5D Mk IV I never noticed this issue, I could always hit the ISO button on the top and then turn the wheel to auto. Although I didn’t use auto as often because the high ISO wasn’t as good so I didn’t feel as comfortable letting the camera do what it wanted. The R3 is so fantastic overall that I “give it more freedom”.
I’d use the Fv function more if it let me assign the wheels differently.
I also don’t get why I can’t have it on M and also auto ISO and then hit the exposure compensation button and have it actually work, instead of acting like a “lock override” even when button lock isn’t on. But that’s another complaint/issue.
Is there a way to take it out of the auto-ISO default and then “roll” it to auto and have it work “normal”? Or does it just turn into this weird auto-thing once in auto?
You get what I mean which is good since my wording isn’t great here, tired after all the holiday stuff lol.
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You can set the range used by Auto ISO (within the bounds of the camera’s native range). I use the default 100-25600 on the R3. The R1 default range is 100-51200, I’m not yet sure if I’ll drop the top end to 25600.
I’ve gotten used to it, my three C# modes are based on Fv, and I restrict the available modes to M and the three C# modes. Fv took some adjustment, but I really like it.
I never use the EC button, I just have EC on the rear dial and I turn that to change EC directly.
If it’s in Auto ISO and you change to an ISO setting, the only way back to auto is to wait for the metering timeout*. But in M with auto ISO, adjusting EC just changes ISO anyway, relative to the value the camera picks based on exposure metering. That’s why I have ISO on the less-used control ring and EC on the easy-to-change (for me) rear dial.
*But I suggest checking the manual for assigning a button to set an exposure value to Auto.
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So my problem is, I really don’t want it to go back to auto unless I want it in auto. Like I just want it to stay at the ISO I set it to when I’m in a situation where auto isn’t working. So it’s like a two issue problem. Which would all be solved if I could just have control over the dial. I use the EC as a way around this problem as sometimes I’m trying to do creative images in tricky lighting.
I don’t quite understand why they don’t just allow full control.
And yea, I meant more that the “acceptable” ISO range of the 5D Mk IV was just very limited so it wasn’t as useful to have auto-ISO “back then”.
Yea, I’m going to try to use the Fv more, I’ve just worked in M mode for… 20 years? I’ve let myself use Tv/Av at times more recently. Fv seems amazingly useful I just want it to work more like M in which buttons change what. It’s close, just not how I’d like it exactly (you may have guessed I’m picky, hah!).
Anyway I’ll take your advice and give Fv more of a try again.
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You need to wait for metering to be unlocked, metering timer done, before going out of auto, or as neru said, if you are doing this during taking shots, set the wheel to EC instead.
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